Chargeable AA batteries

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I like the idea of using lion vs lipo... being so new to this I maybe should have looked at those before I bought this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C1B2K2M4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details . These fit and so far last pleanty of time but since the controller sits unsued during the week maybe not the best choice?
To be honest, I have rechargeable Enloop AAs in all of my other transmitters, I simply buy two sets for each transmitter (hoping to find a solution so that I only have one transmitter to worry about), but those Enloop AAs last forever. Whenever I am going to take out one of my rigs, I make sure that both sets of batteries are topped off, and if I don't run my rig for 8 months, those batteries are always still ready to go, and don't require being placed in storage. For me, there is no downside to using the Enloop AAs, compared to the downsides of using a lipo.
 
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Sounds like a good solution. As far as trying to use only one transmitter, I have settled on the flyski gt5, my plan is just to replace the receiver in anything I buy and bind it as another model in the gt5, it apparently can store up to 20.
 
Currently in my 4GS I use regular 6 AA batteries. They last pretty long. Usually change them every 2 months. Used to use the included lipo in the RC8X but now since I don't use it anymore, it just sits, could use it in the 4GS but the battery tray on it broke and I have to tape it up every time. 🙄

(Included Lipo in the RC8X is a 1700mah 2s btw) I heard higher voltage battery can help with the signal (better signal) but I tried 8 AAAs which fully charged was 12v but they drained super fast due to the screen, even though I have the screen settings, after 3 seconds, the screen goes to 25% brightness. That included lipo, recently I just left it fully charged. But back last summer when the issues didn't appear yet, I would storage charge it after racing for that week.
 
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To be honest, I have rechargeable Enloop AAs in all of my other chargers, I simply buy two sets for each transmitter (hoping to find a solution so that I only have one transmitter to worry about), but those Enloop AAs last forever. Whenever I am going to take out one of my rigs, I make sure that both sets of batteries are topped off, and if I don't run my rig for 8 months, those batteries are always still ready to go, and don't require being placed in storage. For me, there is no downside to using the Enloop AAs, compared to the downsides of using a lipo.
Exactly the same for me. I see absolutely no point in going to a LiPo for my transmitter when the Eneloop batteries last a long time. Especially in my GT3B that takes 8 of them. I don't even bother charging them until I have ran through a number of packs. They just keep going. Even after sitting for months. I wouldn't want to mess with charging and storage charging a LiPo every time I wanted to run my cars. Now if I was racing, that might be different.
 
Currently in my 4GS I use regular 6 AA batteries. They last pretty long. Usually change them every 2 months. Used to use the included lipo in the RC8X but now since I don't use it anymore, it just sits, could use it in the 4GS but the battery tray on it broke and I have to tape it up every time. 🙄

(Included Lipo in the RC8X is a 1700mah 2s btw) I heard higher voltage battery can help with the signal (better signal) but I tried 8 AAAs which fully charged was 12v but they drained super fast due to the screen, even though I have the screen settings, after 3 seconds, the screen goes to 25% brightness. That included lipo, recently I just left it fully charged. But back last summer when the issues didn't appear yet, I would storage charge it after racing for that week.
David, you are helping me so much with this RC8X. Given I have not used it yet, though I did start on the Capra which is going to be the test monkey for that radio. You've been the man leading the way for the rest of us, and it is so very much appreciated that you are sharing your experiences with us, incredibly helpful!
 
David, you are helping me so much with this RC8X. Given I have not used it yet, though I did start on the Capra which is going to be the test monkey for that radio. You've been the man leading the way for the rest of us, and it is so very much appreciated that you are sharing your experiences with us, incredibly helpful!
Based on what David has shared, and the horror stories I have read on the internet, if you haven't opened the box yet, I'd sell it or return it if you can.
 
Based on what David has shared, and the horror stories I have read on the internet, if you haven't opened the box yet, I'd sell it or return it if you can.
There is a few things going on there, to be honest. I have had it too long, and while it hasn't been used on a rig yet it has been opened, and the battery was charged for storage. The second issue is it is the last gift my wife of 26 years purchased for me, and she believed at the time she was buying me the latest greatest. Three weeks later she passed, so regardless of if it works or not, I will never be getting rid of that radio. Besides, I never like to sell things with issues, without telling the person who is buying it what is going on. At that point, they either wouldn't want to buy it, or would want to buy it for pennies on the dollar, and I wouldn't do that. That is precisely why I have never sold my Cayman Pro RTR, it is so incredibly fragile, and the moment I tell that to a prospective buyer, they'd likely only want to pay a price I would be unwilling to accept.

But, there is good news on that front, I recently received the new front axle from Furitek, and it is all aluminum construction, a lot more heavy duty than the originals are. As soon as they make the rear axles available for purchase, I plan on buying one of those. At $90 for the front axle, these things had better be tough. If I can find some stronger driveshafts for this rig, then I believe all of it's weaknesses will have been addressed, and I will be driving the heck out of it around the house. Making crawler courses with household items, and having a blast!

Now that we mention it, maybe you can help me, when measuring a driveshaft, I assume you'd measure it from u-joint to u-joint, while it is connected to the truck, am I right on this? It is the only thing that makes sense to me. With these new axles, I may simply begin looking for some driveshafts with will fit, elsewhere, since Furitek is always out of stock on their new metal ones, and the original plastic ones snap super easy.
 
I heard higher voltage battery can help with the signal (better signal) but I tried 8 AAAs which fully charged was 12v but they drained super fast due to the screen, even though I have the screen settings, after 3 seconds, the screen goes to 25% brightness. That included lipo, recently I just left it fully charged. But back last summer when the issues didn't appear yet, I would storage charge it after racing for that week.

I have no idea what's inside the radio, so anything is possible, but I can say that varying the range in relation to the battery voltage would be a bad design. It's unpredictable performance and adds variables to characterization. They would probably put something in the docs that says "Range: 500 meters at 12 V". Of course I would ask what is it at 11V then?

Modern electronics are design to have consistent known voltage. Life is so much easier without everything changing all the time. This is done with DC/DC converter to set the working voltage at what you need. They can increase or decrease voltage depending on what you need. That way it's a known quantity at all times and it's much easier to characterize.

-> BECs are packaged and ruggedized DC/DC converters.

So if you give it 6V and needs 12V, they will use a boost circuit to make it happen. Then it's 12V all the time.
 
I have no idea what's inside the radio, so anything is possible, but I can say that varying the range in relation to the battery voltage would be a bad design. It's unpredictable performance and adds variables to characterization. They would probably put something in the docs that says "Range: 500 meters at 12 V". Of course I would ask what is it at 11V then?

Modern electronics are design to have consistent known voltage. Life is so much easier without everything changing all the time. This is done with DC/DC converter to set the working voltage at what you need. They can increase or decrease voltage depending on what you need. That way it's a known quantity at all times and it's much easier to characterize.

-> BECs are packaged and ruggedized DC/DC converters.

So if you give it 6V and needs 12V, they will use a boost circuit to make it happen. Then it's 12V all the time.
Same type of circuitry used in modern flashlights, that allows them to keep a constant brightness until the batteries die. Am I right?
 
Same type of circuitry used in modern flashlights, that allows them to keep a constant brightness until the batteries die. Am I right?

Very similar. LEDs are current driven not voltage. Yes it's weird. They use constant current drivers. So the voltage will drop and it still provide the amount of current.

It's like a BEC.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle-creations-10-amp-adjustable-bec-cse010-0004-00/p18210
Input Voltage: 5v to 25.2v (2S to 6S LiPo)
Output Voltage: 5.1V - User may set output voltage from 4.8 to 9

The output voltage is set (4.8V to 9V) and consistent. The input voltage is somewhere between 5V and 25V and it can change
 
Very similar. LEDs are current driven not voltage. Yes it's weird. They use constant current drivers. So the voltage will drop and it still provide the amount of current.

It's like a BEC.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle-creations-10-amp-adjustable-bec-cse010-0004-00/p18210
Input Voltage: 5v to 25.2v (2S to 6S LiPo)
Output Voltage: 5.1V - User may set output voltage from 4.8 to 9

The output voltage is set (4.8V to 9V) and consistent. The input voltage is somewhere between 5V and 25V and it can change
Haha, that is the exact same BEC I have sitting on the bench, set to install into the Capra.
 
Sounds like a good solution. As far as trying to use only one transmitter, I have settled on the flyski gt5, my plan is just to replace the receiver in anything I buy and bind it as another model in the gt5, it apparently can store up to 20.
I have the GT5, it came with the Gen8 Axe and I really like it. I was looking for something that gave me more options for 4WS, and had a color screen, so I decided to try the RC8X. It will get tested very soon, but after everything I have been told, I am not holding my breath that radio is going to get the job done. I may well be searching for something different in the near future, or I might just buy some receivers for my GT5, because for what it does I have zero complaints with that setup, at all. It does have plenty of channels for the Dig servo, just not sure about the 4WS yet.
 
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